| Cleaning
Avoid washing your vehicle in direct sunlight as this increases the paint surface temperature. This may result in water spots magnifying, which in turn may burn alkali deposits onto the paint surface, leading to general paintwork deterioration.
However you choose to wash your vehicle it’s vitally important that you first soak the paintwork with clean water and keep the paintwork soaked during the entire cleaning process prior to drying. Soaking softens the dirt and grime which could otherwise scratch the paintwork when you start to wipe the surface with a sponge or towel.
Sponges can actually harbour grit and dirt. That is why they discolour over time. Instead you might want to use cotton towels. These are washable and therefore do not allow dirt to accumulate. In addition a cotton towel is softer than a sponge, particularly the cheaper nylon sponges that are available from some supermarkets and discount car accessory shops. Many of these sponges are actually so course that they put 1000’s of minor scratches in the paintwork, particularly when each cleaning stroke you make could be pushing dirt around as well. Minor scratching is often not noticeable – but the paint finish can take on a dull appearance over time.
Fill a bucket 2/3rds with fresh water. Then fill a second bucket with fresh water, again up to the 2/3rds level. Use the second bucket to rinse your sponge or towel before re-wetting in the first bucket. This will keep the water in your first bucket cleaner and reduce the risk of grit and dirt marking your paintwork. Filling each bucket 2/3rds with water will allow dirt and grit to fall to the bottom of the bucket and away from the sponge or towel when rinsing and re-wetting. When washing, use only light pressure. Heavy pressure may lead to paint scratches and dull the finish.
Taking your sponge or towel, start with the windows and exterior mirrors first. Next go to the roof and work downwards, cleaning the door pillars, then bonnet, boot or tailgate, then wings and doors, before washing the bumper areas, sills and finally wheels and tyres. Try as far as possible to work your sponge or towel in a straight line, back and forth motion, rather than a circular motion. In this way, if any grit is accidentally picked up any scratches will be less noticeable in the paintwork.
In fact, some show car experts recommend using separate sponges, towels and wash leathers for windows, upper paintwork, lower paintwork, bumpers and wheels. This is so that the grit & dirt from the lower parts of the bodywork don’t scratch the more vulnerable and visible parts of the vehicle e.g. window glass. We also recommend changing the water in your bucket frequently to avoid a build up of dirt and grime. Using dirty water adds to the risk that grit or dirt may cause scratching. If you have expensive wheels, ensure you start with clean water in your bucket to prevent scratching of lacquered, polished or chrome surfaces.
Ensure that you rinse the car with clean water afterwards, preferably with a hosepipe.
Then take the car for a short run before final drying. This helps get lodged water out of door, bonnet, boot and tailgate jambs. It also dries the brake discs which stops the rusting that can considerably shorten the life of your discs.
Finish off with a chamois wash-leather. This can really improve the appearance of the paintwork. However, for excellent drying results with minimal effort try a Hydra Flexi Blade. Hydra Flexi Blades have been used by the professional car preparation and valeting experts for some time now. These soft silicone blades do not harbour grit and grim like a wash-leather can. So you not only dry your car more quickly but you also reduce the risk of scratching.
Use a hosepipe or power washer to clean the underside of the vehicle in winter to prevent the build up of road grit and salt which may lead to corrosion of panels, particularly around seams, lips and crevices. Do however be careful when using a power washer on your paintwork. A high-pressure water jet hitting a dry surface can push dry dirt and grit across a panel leading to scratching. Therefore it is important to gently soak the paintwork first to soften any dirt.
Tip – Use compressed air to chase water out of cracks and crevices. Use a towel to catch the water as it's blown out.
Back to top of page Waxing or Polishing
Virtually all vehicle paint finishes are porous, particularly the newer water based paint systems. Therefore it’s important to keep the paint finish sealed from environmental pollution and the harmful effects of the sun’s rays with regular waxing. As soon as the paint finish stops beading (i.e. when beads of water stop forming on the paint surface after rain) it’s time to apply a further protective coat of wax. The durability of a wax coating will depend on a number of factors including exposure to pollution, the sun's UV rays, rainfall and temperature.
After washing and drying the vehicle apply a coat of wax following the instructions on the label. If you haven’t waxed the vehicle before or if it’s some time since it was last waxed, two coats of wax may be needed to fully protect the paint surface and restore the gloss appearance. As temperatures increase, waxes become increasingly difficult to remove. It’s always best to apply waxes in a cool shaded area or at least out of direct sunlight (stops you getting overheated too!). Again, work in straight line, using back and forth movements, ensuring an overlap between strokes, rather than a circular motion. Most waxes need to be applied in mild to warm conditions. Applying in colder or more damp conditions may result in streaking.
Cotton towels and application pads give the best results for applying and removing waxes or polishes. They have less of a tendency to scratch the surface as some harsher materials may. A microfibre cloth may be used for removing waxes or polishes. Alternatively, Microfibres are particularly useful for giving your paintwork a final wipe over after removing waxes or polishes with a towel and often gives the paintwork an added gloss and smoothness.
Back to top of page
Storage
Ideally vehicles should be kept in a dry, well-ventilated environment. Unless you are lucky enough to have a heated or air conditioned garage, you might want to invest in a dehumidifier. These units remove moisture from the air so preventing damp and condensation forming on the vehicle. However, the drier air a dehumidifier produces can damage some types of upholstery, including leather. It is therefore important that you check the manufacturer’s instructions before using a dehumidifier. Remember, more corrosion can occur during the summer months than the winter because of higher levels of humidity. Avoid garaging a damp vehicle if you can – its best if you dry it first before putting it away. In this way the moisture has less time to act on the paintwork etc. and cause damage.
Back to top of page Corrosion Protection
Wax based corrosion inhibitors are perhaps the most popular and effective. These can often be thinned to improve the flow and coverage, particularly when treating bodywork cavities such as sill areas and doors.
Back to top of page | 
